The Finish

October 28 – October 31, 1989

October 28 (Saturday): Johnstown PA to Entriken PA

75 miles
8:00 pm EDT

The adventure continues.

We (Vicki, Tim Guilford and I) got into Johnstown about 2 am last night. The Corcorans were glad to see us, I think.

Very hilly ride today – we went over five mountain passes, 9-10% grades, two miles up each. Definitely “major” climbs. We blasted down the first hill, then the party was over. We left Johnstown up a brutally steep hill. An elderly man in the middle of the climb told us we were going to get killed riding on that road.

I pretty much bonked at about 50 miles, but I recovered after some Exceed. Tim dropped me on the last major climb, a two-mile ten-percent grade. I did it at 4 mph.

We’re camping at Ray’s Lakeside Resort. Sue Corcoran met us here. It’s nice, especially the warm showers. The weather was great, 100% sunny, high 78 degrees. But tomorrow morning it should be about 30-35 degrees.

I’m pretty tired. I’m in shape, but not as strong as I was in August. Tomorrow will be different, hilly with about 100 miles.

My ankle is still a little swollen, but not sore. My back is sore – I hurt it last Tuesday. Tomorrow – Gettysburg.

Jean & Roger Corcoran in Johnstown PA

October 29 (Sunday): Entriken PA to Gettysburg PA

89 miles
7:30 pm EST

Another beautiful day – sunshine, no clouds, 75°, slightly humid. It was cold this morning, probably mid-40s. Cold, humid, hilly mornings are “sweat-and-freeze” to a bicyclist. Sweat terribly all the way up the mountain and freeze on the way down.

Tim and I left in a misty fog which lasted about an hour, after which we’d only put eleven hilly miles past us and were drenched with sweat. Doubts that we could reach Gettysburg before nightfall filled our minds. The roads flattened a bit before us and our pace picked up slightly. We were still tired from yesterday’s climbing. Breakfast was light – we had some apple cake before we left and a snack at 20 miles in Orbisonia. Then the real ascending began. We climbed 2,000 or 2,500 feet; a ten percent grade for two miles.

We passed under the Pennsylvania Turnpike, then had a choice – PA 641 truck or PA 641 car. We decided to take route 641 car, thinking it would be steeper, but shorter. We were right, it was four miles shorter, but very steep. Another ten-percent grade for two miles; when I sat, I went 3-4 mph and standing did 4-5. I cursed and yelled. We were almost totally trashed at the summit. We said to each other that if it were longer, we might have walked. That was the last major climb of the day. It was 12:00 and we’d only done about 43 miles. Had there been any more big climbs (we didn’t know what lay ahead) I don’t know if we would have made it. Tim said that he didn’t expect that the mountains would be this steep. I had about a 27-inch low gear (plus 50 pounds equipment) – Tim had no equipment to carry but he only had a 40-inch or so low. It was so steep I couldn’t spin up, either. I had to stand a lot. The pain was intense.

But the descent! Tim maxed at 50 or 55 mph, I at 48.6 mph. I’ve never gone faster on a bike. The descent was 10% grade for two miles, then 7% for the next one and a half. The ride was fairly flat from then on.

We lunched in Roxbury, and slowly made our way in. On the flats it was tough to keep up with Tim so I drafted him a lot; when he got ahead, he’d coast until I could catch him.

I drank 3 ¼ bottles of Exceed today. It helped a lot, but I learned the body doesn’t lie – three bottles must have been enough because water began tasting great and Exceed terrible. I guess I had too much Exceed and not enough water. My stomach felt queasy as well. We got to Pizza Hut in Gettysburg around 3:30-4:00 and inhaled a large pizza. It cost too much so Tim lent me some cash (all he had) so I could afford to stay in the hostel here.

So now it’s just one more day of cycling, and it should be an easy one. I’ve had the unique experience of being able to reflect back on this trip for two months and then finishing it.

The mind forgets pain. The farther in the past the first part of the trip gets, the easier the ride was, the less windy it gets and the less hilly and lonely it becomes. I recalled tonight, while talking with Vicki on the phone, how lonely it felt not to be with her. These last two days of mountain climbing will eventually seem easier. The good parts are remembered well, the bad and difficult fade. This trip I’ll always cherish; like wine it grows better and finer with age. I hope I’ve left a part of me, some trace everywhere I’ve stopped. From the inn at Mazama, to Jay and Linda in Republic, to Dave and Russ in Cooperstown, ND to the people I’ve met and forgotten there will always be something way back in my head, some thought or picture, that will come to the surface, perhaps reminded of by something else, that will seem special in its own moment, perhaps forgotten for several years.

Tomorrow I can close the chapter on this journey and begin the next. On with the more responsible things, I suppose. My legs will ache tomorrow, I’ll lag on the hills, but it’ll be a great day.

Tim Guilford and I prepare to leave Johnstown on a chilly Saturday morning
At the top of a mountain - perhaps on PA 641
Tim watches the bicycles outside a store

October 30 (Monday): Gettysburg PA to Wheaton MD


86.6 miles

(There was no entry today. I recall that I left Gettysburg late due to heavy fog and arrived home at dusk.)

Entering Maryland on Business Route 15, S of Gettysburg
Home, sweet home.
Me, holding the map my nephew (David Manning) used to track my progress

October 31 (Tuesday): Epilogue

1:15 am EST

At 5:30 pm yesterday afternoon my little “saga” ended. As it got dark I rode up to the curb under cloudy skies and damp pavement to Vicki awaiting with a bottle of champagne.

Another warm day, once the fog lifted around noon. I took the traditional route out of Gettysburg, south on Business 15 to Old Frederick Rd to Frederick, down New Design Rd, Oland, Lily Pons, Park Mills, to Route 28 into Rockville and onto Veirs Mills Rd. Just a few little hills – how nice.

Trevor and Cheryl and Nancy and David came over for pizza.

Now it’s time to begin packing for our move to Frederick in December. Finally, a house of our own!

There’s not much else to add that I didn’t put down Sunday night. I’m glad it’s over, I’d never trade the experience for anything, but I doubt I’ll be tempted to do it again.

Now it’s time to go downstairs and get my laundry out of the dryer. Home, sweet home.

…And they flew.

September 2024 - Final Words

To take my tiny notebook scribblings and key them into these pages only required a handful of days.  The amount of time that passed between the end of this journey I’ve described and now comes to thirty-five years.  Here’s the thing: that journey never ended.  I still ride a bike often.  Most of all, I am not the same person that I was in 1989.

When I reflect back on what I had written during those eight weeks, I see a fellow of 31 years of age who was under-prepared for this, both physically and mentally.  He did not expect such setbacks (and they certainly presented themselves), nor the loneliness a solo cross-country bike trip would present.  He whined about how difficult the trip was more than he absorbed himself with the experience.

Well, I had a bad right knee.  That was a result of a slightly crooked pelvis, which effectively lengthened my right leg.  Setting saddle height correctly for my left leg made the saddle too low for my right, which caused pain above my knee.  My crash in Wisconsin was caused by my wandering eyes on a beautiful downhill curve at 35 miles per hour.  I was lucky that I only had a broken rib or two (I can see the bodily repairs in x-rays today), a sprained thumb, bad road rash on my right hip, and enough soreness to limp around for a week.  Yet, I was able to continue pedaling.  I had my panniers stolen 60 miles away from Minneapolis.  The a-holes got my undeveloped film, disposable cameras, clothing, and some maps.  But I always brought the most important items into my tent with me, such as wallet, journal, current maps, etc.

In Johnstown, one broken light bulb led to a badly sprained ankle that temporarily ended my trip.  But I was able to conclude it two months later with my good friend, Tim Guilford.

I was fortunate to get eight weeks unpaid leave from work.  I had a spouse (Vicki) willing to be without me and my income for those two months.  I was blessed to have numerous friends to visit along the way with whom I could stay.  I wish so very much that Hugh could have accompanied me – we would have had such an enjoyable time sharing in the experience.  At 66 years old, I don’t expect us to undertake such a long bike trip together from this point on – but there will be shorter ones.

I’ve learned that bicycling (and other) experiences shared are what are important.  The miles, the climbs, descents, rain, wind – they don’t matter very much.  If I only knew then what I know now – except, I had to do the trip then in order to know what I now know.

“Let’s exchange the experience” – Kate Bush

See you out there.

-William Smith, September 13, 2024

Nether Lands

High on this mountain
The clouds down below
I’m feeling so strong and alive
From this rocky perch
I’ll continue to search
For the wind
And the snow
And the sky
I want a lover
I want some friends
And I want to live in the sun
And I want to do all the things that I
never have done.
Sunny bright mornings
And pale moonlit nights
Keep me from feeling alone
Now, I’m learning to fly
And this freedom is like
Nothing that I’ve ever known
I’ve seen the bottom
And I’ve been on top
But mostly I’ve lived in between
And where do you go
When you get to the end of
your dream?
Off in the nether lands
I heard a sound
Like the beating of heavenly wings
And deep in my brain
I can hear a refrain
Of my soul as she rises and sings
Anthems to glory and
Anthems to love and
Hymns filled with early delight
Like the songs that the darkness
Composes to worship the light.
Once in a vision
I came on some woods
And stood at a fork in the road
My choices were clear
Yet I froze with the fear
Of not knowing which way to go
One road was simple
Acceptance of life
The other road offered sweet peace
When I made my decision
My vision became my release.

–  Dan Fogelberg

Where I Stopped/Passed Through

June 28, 1989 – Anacortes, Concrete, Marblemount (WA)
June 29 – Newhalem, Mazama (WA)
June 30 – Winthrop, Okanogan, Omak (WA)
July 1 – Riverside, Tonasket, Republic (WA)
July 2 – Kettle Falls, Colville (WA)
July 3 – Ione, Usk (WA)
July 4 – Oldtown, Priest River, Sandpoint (ID)
July 5 – Sandpoint (ID)
July 6 – Clark Fork, Libby (MT)
July 7 – Rexford, Eureka (MT)
July 8 – Fortine, Whitefish (MT)
July 9 – Columbia Falls, Coram, West Glacier, Lake McDonald (MT)
July 10 – St. Mary, Browning, Cut Bank (MT)
July 11 – Dunkirk, Galata, Chester (MT)
July 12 – Rudyard, Havre, Chinook, Harlem (MT)
July 13 – Saco, Hinsdale, Glasgow (MT)
July 14 – Nashua, Wolf Point, Poplar, Culbertsen (MT)
July 15 – Bainville (MT), Williston (ND)
July 16 – Stanley, Minot (ND)
July 17 – Minot (ND)
July 18 – Granville, Towner, Rugby, Devil’s Lake (ND)
July 19 – Hamar, Binford, Cooperstown (ND)
July 20 – Page, Fargo (ND), Hawley (MN)
July 21 – Cormorant, Pelican Rapids, Battle Lake, Urbank, Parkers Prairie (MN)
July 22 – Long Prairie, Sobieski, Royalton, Ramey, Milaca (MN)
July 23 – July 29 – Minneapolis (MN)
July 30 – St. Paul, Pt. Douglas, Red Wing (MN)
July 31 – Frontenac, Lake City, Wabasha, Winona, LaCrosse (WI)
August 1 – Brownsville (MN), New Albin, Marquette, Guttenberg, Dyersville (IA)
August 2 – Oxford Jct, Eldridge, Davenport (IA)
August 3 – Orion, Kewanee (IL)
August 4 – Henry, Streator, Campus, Ashkum, Gilman (IL)
August 5 – Watseka (IL), Logansport, Kokomo (IN)
August 6 – Normal, Marion, Huntington (IN)
August 7 – Yoder, Monroeville (IN), Hamler, Bowling Green (OH)
August 8 – Bowling Green (OH)
August 9 – Clyde, Berlin Heights, Oberlin, Valley City, Brunswick (OH)
August 10 – Hudson, Shalersville, Ravenna, Salem (OH)
August 11 – E. Palestine, Negley, Ohioville, Aliquippa, Robinson (PA)
August 12 – August 13 – Robinson (PA)
August 14 – Freeport, Homer City, Oak Grove, Johnstown (PA)
October 28 – Johnstown, Entriken
October 29 – Orbisonia, Roxbury, Gettysburg
October 30 – Wheaton (MD)