July 19 – July 25, 1989
July 19 (Day 22): Devil's Lake ND to Cooperstown ND
87.4 miles
14 mph average speed
7:14 pm CDT
I finally did what all baseball players strive for: I made it to Cooperstown. Wrong one? Never mind.
Easy ride today. Hot, though. About 85 degrees. Very humid.
Camping in the city park, very nice. There are two gentlemen who work on the railroad, named Dave and Russ. Russ bought the pizza and Dave went for a 36-mile bike ride.
11:58 pm CDT
Q: Why is ND so windy?
A: Because Montana sucks and Minnesota blows.
Had a good time staying up and talking. It’s nice to have some company. Talked about trains, fires (Russ was a paid fireman), cycling, small and large towns and much else.
I did, however, chafe the “family jewels” very badly today. Tomorrow’s ride could be painful.
Small towns are great.
(2006) Dave asked if I wanted to join him on his bike ride – I declined, as I was not going any direction unless it was east.
Dave Zodrow and Russ (I forget his last name) worked for the railroad. Rather than sleep in hotels, since they got a constant stipend each day for meals and lodging, they chose to sleep in their small RVs in campgrounds and save the money.
We stayed up until just past midnight talking about everything under the sun. It was a very peaceful, relaxing night. We were in an RV that belonged to one of them, but I don’t remember which. I also recall that the campsite charge was $3.00 per night, and that it was on the honor system, and that when I remembered that I had not paid, I was already far enough away that I was not going back.
July 20 (Day 23): Cooperstown ND to Hawley MN
132 miles
13.5 avg
7:45 pm CDT
I blitzed right through Fargo today. I only stopped for a minute – you’ve seen one city, you’ve seen them all. I was also very anxious to get to another state.
My butt is sore for two reasons: 1) 95-degree heat (equals sweat); 2) bumpy road joints. My sunburn is okay, and the “jewels” are okay.
I didn’t get breakfast today. When I got to Page, it was 10:25 and they stopped serving it at ten. So, breakfast was a burger and fries. However, pre-breakfast snack was five mini-corn muffins, and six wheat rolls I bought last night. Right now, I’m eating pizza (again).
Met two cyclists from Bar Harbor going to Anacortes.
Did more miles than I wanted to. I wasn’t pleased with the KOA campground in Moorhead, so I shot for Buffalo River State Park. It was five miles from the nearest food, so I picked up a room for $17 at the Riverside Inn here in Hawley. I also got off US 10 in Moorhead (the route turned, I did not) and had to backtrack, adding about (pronounced “aboot” here) 8 miles. I’m going to try for Minneapolis on Sunday. Tomorrow I’m shooting for Parker’s Prairie and Milaca on Saturday.
For some reason it’s felt like a Saturday all day.
A lot of grasshoppers on the road the last two days. As you get near, they take off, only to crash into the panniers or my legs.
I am feeling a bit more “up” lately.
(2006) I stayed in the Riverside Inn on Highway 10 in Hawley. $17.49 including tax. It was a pretty tiny hotel, but the pizza next door was good. Traffic on US 10 was very heavy, and I missed a turn, which added a couple of miles to the ride in order to get back on course.
July 21 (Day 24): Hawley MN to Parker's Prairie MN
105.2 miles
13.3 mph average speed
Very warm ride – about 88 degrees and humid. I had a slight headwind, but that helped to cool me off. The next two days should be hot. I am camping in the city park across the street from the motel I had hoped to stay in. It seems the Doble family reunion is this weekend and the bunch is here.
My butt really hurts; the roads have been asphalt paved over concrete – at every joint, every fifteen feet or so – B-BUMP-B-BAM! I had ¾ mile of dirt road – I rode until I fell, then I walked. I smashed my right ankle three times with the left pedal. It has swelled nicely.
Breakfast II in Cormorant. Nice roadside café, nice folks, and good cinnamon buns. I went to the buffet at Marlon’s Café. Five pieces of chicken, one of ham, mashed potatoes, salad, stuffing, watermelon and lemonade for $5.
I am tired. Milaca tomorrow, Minneapolis Sunday. Met a cyclist, Chris Palmatier, from Lake City MN, going to Anacortes.
July 22 (Day 25): Parker's Prairie MN to Milaca MN
118.3 miles
12.5 avg
(Today is Vicki’s 30th birthday)
I am very tired. Thank goodness only one more riding day before I rest. I slept about four hours last night. I was awakened twice by trains and once by a dog barking. I was up at 5:30 am. I’ve found that the secret to doing lots of miles is starting by 6:30 am and eating breakfast on the road about 20 miles or so later.
I am camping in the city park. I’m not getting the shower and bath I truly need. The men’s restroom there is off-limits – there is dumpage on the floor next to the sink. I’ll use the women’s. Otherwise, the park is okay. I fear it might not be too quiet as it’s next to a hospital (ambulances).
Talked to a farmer on the road this morning for a ½ hour. He said it fell to -38° F there last winter.
Very bumpy roads today: pedal eleven revolutions, raise off the saddle, bump-bump, pedal eleven more, etc. – for 100 miles. I can hardly sit right now. Headwinds all day – from the east.
It’s getting so I can’t read the paper at breakfast or lunch – so many people have questions – but that’s okay. It’s fun to have company while eating.
Jim (Moffett) recommended the Hiway Café for food. It wasn’t bad – I had a bacon-cheeseburger and fries and ice cream. Breakfast was my usual – French toast and English muffin. I’ve cycled about 1870 miles. I’ve done eight centuries in the last eleven riding days, and three in a row. Eight dogs chased me today.
July 23 (Day 26): Milaca MN to Minneapolis (by auto)
Overnight someone stole my panniers. So much for city campgrounds. Gone are: the maps, camp stove, mess kit, two cycling shirts, one pair cycling shorts, toiletries, socks, tools, pictures of Glacier Park and a few other things. I heard a car speed away sometime when it was dark. The discovery wasn’t made until I went to put the tent/sleeping bag on the bike.
Mom and Dad said they’d help with the expenses, which I expect to be about $300.00. I need to get replacements – I’ll start tomorrow morning. Too bad about the pictures. I cruised the town environs by bike – I did not find anything. I hope they liked my smelly underwear.
I’m falling asleep – I’m at Audrey Johnson’s and Jim Moffett’s. And Hugh’s mother and sister (Suzie) are here.
(2006) It’s not so bad that they stole my stuff – but they took two rolls of film, too. All my pictures from Glacier Park, which was by far the prettiest part of the entire trip. I will return there some day. I always brought my money, journal and most important possessions into my tent. I wish I’d brought my used disposable cameras as well. I could have camped at a campground that was more secure, but it was 20 miles away and I was really tired. I was very fortunate that Audrey was willing to go out of her way and drive 60 miles north to pick me up.
July 24 (Day 27): Minneapolis MN
6:30 pm CDT
Bikecentennial will send me the two missing maps by Federal Express in the next few days. I bought new panniers, tools and toiletries today. Spent $260. But I still have more to buy. The weather is hot and steamy. Yecch!
My weight, which was 155 lbs at the start of the trip, is now 135 lbs. Two days’ rest is starting to restore my energy to a healthy level. My appetite is still voracious. Today I’ve eaten three bagels, two English muffins, ½ lb of pasta, 1/3 large bag of chocolate chip cookies and a bran muffin – and we haven’t had dinner yet.
Greg Lemond won the Tour de France yesterday. Overall, he beat Laurent Fignon by eight seconds by beating him on yesterday’s time trial. He lives in Wayzata, about twenty miles west of here.
Suzanne and Ruth Johnson flew home today. The place is much more quiet now. But it was great to see them.
(2006) The Moffett-Johnson family hospitality was fantastic! Typical of everyone I stayed with along the way.
July 25 (Day 28): Minneapolis MN
Bought more stuff. That’s it!