July 5 – July 11, 1989
July 5 (Day 8): Sandpoint ID
5:30 pm, PDT.
8.0 miles today
Rode into town to 5th Avenue Bikes. The general consensus is that I may have a frame crack developing, but it should make it home. I got a new mirror and water bottle finally. To lighten the load, I mailed back five pounds of stuff (sweater, maps, gloves, rain suit, spare fuel bottle, etc.) which will ease the strain on the bike.
Right now, it is hot through much of the country and raining heavily on the East Coast. It was beautiful here; we sunbathed and went into the jacuzzi.
My knee still hurts a little. The Tour de France has started.
The news: Cindy is pregnant; Marcia just made it out of Mt. Rainier when she hurt her ankle, it snowed, and they had to follow a river to get out.
A couple from Toronto, Gino and Leslie, told us we must stop at Johnson’s Café in St. Mary. Good food, hotel, camping. Went to the mall today (the post office was in there). Pizza Hut for dinner.
Tomorrow, we go to Montana.
July 6 (Day 9): Sandpoint ID to Libby MT
82.1 miles (about 12.5% complete)
12.7 mph avg
We have reached Montana! The weather was beautiful (but hot). A pretty flat ride, and the scenery was the best yet. Lakes, rivers and mountains everywhere. We’ve reached Mountain Time; the sun sets around 9:45.
My knee still hurts, though it seems to feel much better in the evening. Dave and Kandy said they’re getting a ride up Going-to-the-Sun in a few days. I am undecided but leaning towards climbing it myself.
US 2 was really destroyed between Troy and Libby. We waited about 20 minutes before we got a ride in the back of a pickup. A couple in an RV gave us each a cold can of pineapple juice. It tasted so good (I was terribly dehydrated).
Met a Potomac Pedaler just east of Clark Fork – Walter Barkan, from Rockville – he’s riding to San Francisco.
Dave and Kandy talked me into a motel again, but it’s time to start camping. I’m not sure how much longer I’ll ride with them – we’re very compatible but I wish they’d camp more. I guess I’ll start riding with them and camp alone. I want to spend less money on lodging and more on food.
We might shoot for Fortine next. Also, at a café in Clark Fork I saw a certificate of commendation to the owners for hiring the handicapped – signed by Ingrid Cipriano.
(2006) I stayed in room 45 of the Sandman Hotel; $22.80. I wonder if Vicki and Ingrid Cipriano are related?
July 7 (Day 10): Libby MT to Eureka MT
73.1 miles (+ 2.28 – post office) = 75.4 miles
Avg speed = 12.3 mph
10:30 and it’s still light out. And we’re camping – in a guy’s backyard – he has a motel, but it was time to camp. We got a late start today, which hurt us because the temperature was in the low 90s. We were finished breakfast and moving at 10:30 am. That’s almost 6 hours after sunrise.
French toast for breakfast the 2nd day in a row – why mess with success?
The Bikecentennial map claimed today’s terrain was flat – bullhockey! Up three miles, down 2. Up 2, down 3. Pretty tough!
Had lunch in a funky bar/restaurant at a park of Lake Koo-whatever *. Burgers and chips, and lots of water and iced tea. Dinner was a fine pizza in Eureka, and we stopped at a nice bar in a cute town called Rexford.
My knee suffered from the hills today; in fact, I am beat.
Vicki says Fellini’s fleas are everywhere – I feel bad for both of them. I keep thinking of the Carpenters’ Christmas song because of the line, “I wish I were with you.” Well, six or seven weeks to go.
* Lake Koocanusa (Kootenai County plus Canada plus USA)
July 8 (Day 11): Eureka MT to Whitefish MT
(2006) I remember the man running the bar in Stryker gave us a complimentary huge bowl of watermelon slices. It was situated in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by trees. There was a jukebox there, and I pumped in a couple of quarters to play Don Henley’s “A Month of Sundays” and a Supertramp song (I can’t remember which one).
I don’t recall the name of the campground here, but it was across the street from the mall (where I saw Ghostbusters), cost $3.64 and was populated by numerous touring motorcyclists. Dave and Kandy called in quits in Minot, ND. I think they spent all their money.
July 9 (Day 12): Whitefish MT to Lake McDonald MT
July 10 (Day 13): Lake McDonald MT to Cut Bank MT
109 miles, about 10 mph avg
Recipe for getting trashed: add one getting-up-at 5 am, mix in a cold 6650-foot Logan Pass, sprinkle in harassment-from-motorists, blend in one huge thunderstorm, mix into 109-mile bowl and stir.
Obviously, I was not eaten by a grizzly bear last night. In fact, I slept well. I left for Logan Pass at 6:15 am with a banana for breakfast. The weather was very cool (50 degrees tops) but there were only scattered clouds. Slowly, I reached the pass, 22 ½ miles later and almost 4 hours later. There it was 44 degrees in the clouds.
I reached the bottom, St. Mary, seconds before the skies opened up for 30 minutes. Ate a burger and met Greg, Clement & Greg (Larry, Daryl and Daryl?). Greg is catching up to his Bikecentennial group (they are here), Clement and Greg are heading south and then east.
So, we all ride to Browning together (no, I didn’t hitch a ride like I could have – cannot do that) and Greg & I stayed on US 2 towards Cut Bank. We got creamed by a very fast-moving thunderstorm five miles out of Browning and – surprise! – at least 25-30 empty pickups passed us by w/o picking us up. The storm ended and we watched two beautiful rainbows in the distance. We rode into Cut Bank, 30 miles later. The weather was great after the storm – sunny and low humidity.
The locals were real asses – horn-honking, name-calling, gestures and splashes.
I’m in the Glacier Motel (15 First Avenue Southwest, $25) after a great pizza at the Hut.
Anyway, I’m exhausted. I wish Vicki were here so I could hug her.
(2006) I recall that there was a Bikecentennial group (the one Greg had been riding with) that camped in town. I chose to stay in a hotel that night for some reason. I wish I had camped out with them.
(2024) The ride on Going to the Sun Highway is still the most beautiful place I’ve ever bicycled.
There is a webcam at St. Mary’s. The road that is in the foreground is the road I was on. I can still remember it as if it were yesterday. The website is below:
St. Mary’s Glacier Park Webcams:
July 11 (Day 14): Cut Bank MT to Chester MT
70.5 miles
About 15 mph
7:20 pm MDT
Staying with the Bikecentennial folks in a city park (with showers). We were going to push on to Rudyard (20 miles further), but I was too tired. Camping seems to be free here. Fantastic weather – no clouds, about 85 – 90 degrees today, low humidity, light winds.
Route 2 was somewhat bumpy. The trains blow their whistle when they pass. I almost got run off the road by a tandem truck as it passed (two trucks met at the same time). Had a nasty headache this afternoon, but three Ibuprofen took care of it.
11:30 pm MDT
We just got back from dinner – I had a lot of chicken, two slices toast, salad and a baked spud for five bucks! And it was delicious.
Had a few beers, two games of pool, and saw the A.L. Beat the N.L. in the All-Star Game. We met Emma, a German woman who is cycling solo to the west coast.
The train goes loudly by every hour or so. Could be interesting! Anyway, add Chester to the long list of friendly Montana towns.
I like camping with a lot of people. Friendly and secure. I’ve gone about 975 miles so far. Wow!
Good night!
