July 12 – July 18, 1989
July 12 (Day 15): Chester MT to Harlem MT
July 13 (Day 16): Harlem MT to Glasgow MT
120 miles
Ouch! I could use an easy day. Today I had 70% headwinds, 10% tailwinds and 20% crosswinds. No sun today, some rain. Tomorrow they’re calling for more of the same. Tonight’s motel was only $20 but I am worried about my budget. I’ve only got $600 left and five weeks to go. I’ll camp more if it’ll only stop raining.
My throat is hoarse from yelling curses at the wind and rain. I’m very tired and my butt is very sore. So far, this trip has been more physically and mentally tiring than I expected. I am taking a day off soon to let this crappy weather pass.
I met two college students going to NY. They left one week before me.
Had Pizza Hut with a man named Rick, who is going to Anacortes. Doing 95 miles per day, he’ll cross in about fifty days.
In Hinsdale, MT I saw two familiar names in the DD Café logbook – Sharon Gang and Steve and Jan Krusemark.
(2006) My home tonight was the Starlodge Motel in Glasgow (motto: The Star Beckons You”). Room 222, twenty dollars. The D & D Diner in Hinsdale had a meal that, if you could eat it all, it was free. Otherwise, you’d have to pay for it (perhaps 10 dollars or so). I don’t remember what the food was, but I know it was more than I could eat – even after many, many miles of pedaling. In fact, it was huge. I did not even try. The Steve and Jan Krusemark referred to are friends of ours from Massachusetts, who cycled around the world on their tandem the previous two years. Sharon Gang was a Washington Area Bicyclist Association leader whose presentation the previous Winter about her cross-country bicycle trip I attended.
July 14 (Day 17): Glasgow MT to Culbertson MT
110.4 miles
13.1 avg
Yay! A good ending to a day. On the same day that I got so frustrated, I put the bike on the side of the road, went to kick it, and fell on my butt (read on). I am glad that no one saw me.
I bonked after breakfast (Nashua) at about 31 miles. That’s when I missed the bicycle field goal attempt. Sitting on the wet ground in the rain, I wondered if anyone would stop and offer me a ride. No one did, so I ate an apple and pedaled to Wolfpoint (51 miles) at 9-10 mph.
At Wolfpoint I met a couple who cycled from Oakland, CA to Herndon, VA and were on their way back west to Seattle. They told me not to despair, there’s plenty of nice days ahead. So, after an iced tea I was moving again at 12 mph.
Then it happened. A farm tractor pulling a 15-foot trailer approached from behind at 18 mph. I slowed, let him pass and caught his draft. The driver approved, so I drafted at 18 mph for the next fifteen miles to the town of Poplar. Before I knew it, I was at mile 72 and charged up. The remaining 38 miles were tough but okay.
I met Anne Ambler’s son today. 97% clouds, some rain. Mostly flat, cool, about 70 degrees.
It is interesting how one can feel so horrible and so great the same day.
(2006) I stayed overnight at The Kings Inn Motel on Highway 2. Room 11 – $24.34. I think that’s where I saw MTV played the video of Pat Metheny’s “Last Train Home”, which was getting simultaneous airplay on the Weather Channel. I fell in love with the piece right then and there.
(2024) I think that Anne Ambler was a person involved in the original board of directors of the Coalition for the Capital Crescent Trail.
July 15 (Day 18): Culbertson MT to Williston MT
51.5 miles (including side trips)
I entered the Central time zone this afternoon. But it was a rough day. If you’re keeping score, it’s an easy guess as to who is ahead (good days are behind).
I am very, very tired. I had a 20-mph crosswind and hills. I sped down hills coasting at the blazing speed of 9 mph! But the worst part is, something is amiss with my right shoulder. I guess all the miles (approximately 550) into the wind and the bumps in the road caused it. It aches; leaning on it while cycling is very painful – it even hurts while eating or writing.
This is my 5th day in a row with headwinds. I’d like to blast to Minot tomorrow, but if the winds are unchanged or if my shoulder still hurts, I may spend another day in this dull campground.
So far, I am the only cyclist here – nothing but campers and RVs.
Interesting note: I am getting a nice tan.
Tried to call Mrs. Johnson to get Hugh’s and Audrey & James’ phone numbers – no answer. I got some good bagels in Williston town center. Unfortunately, the campground is 2 ½ miles from anything.
Gotta go – my right shoulder hurts too much. About 2500 miles remaining – ouch!
(2006) The campground in Williston (Buffalo Trails Campground) was fairly comfortable and quiet. Nine dollars for a one-night stay.
(2024) Williston is far north and in the western portion of its time zone. I was able to stay up until 10 pm writing in daylight – inside my tent.
July 16 (Day 19): Williston ND to Minot ND
56.1 miles
10 mph avg
9:15 CDT
Yes! Williston and Minot are about 120 miles apart. I hitched a ride for 70 miles.
The first 8 miles north on US 2 were easy. I was heading north. When I resumed my eastward progress, a strong 25-mph crosswind kicked in from the southeast.
Downhills became hills; flats became steep hills. On the flats I did 9 mph, 5 on the uphills and 13 on the descents (all pedaling).
After 50 miles of this fun, I stopped at a rest area, about 20 miles short of Stanley. I was totally trashed. I wanted to lay down in the sunny, windy afternoon and go to sleep.
Of course, by this time I had already screamed curses in the air forty times over. The previous 10 miles I had stopped several times at the side of the road in futile desperation, almost sobbing. I really hate wind. I’ve never faced wind like this that doesn’t quit.
A man named Tom, and his son (Tom, Jr) stopped at the rest area with their truck after giving up on canoeing because it was so windy they couldn’t paddle south. They live just east of Minot. Off we went.
I feel guilty taking a ride, but with the winds of the past week, I more than made up for it in effort. I cycled to the Super 8 Motel north of town; I was ready to quit right then and there, extremely depressed. I showered, left a message for Vicki and fell asleep. I felt much better then.
Vicki thinks I’m dwelling on the bad and wallowing in self-pity. She is correct, but I still am sure I’ve had more than my share of crap thrown at me. Sue Corcoran had nice things to say when I talked to her. I think if I had called Nancy & Jay instead of taking a nap, Jay would be on his way to pick me up. I’d been close to calling it quits before, but not this close.
Tomorrow, I head for Rugby. Chance of thunderstorms.
Talked to Hugh tonight. Mrs. Johnson is in Minneapolis. I could push it & see her there, but my next few nights are not spaced appropriately to do that. Whatever, I will take 2-3 days off there at James & Audrey’s.
Aside from the wind, today’s weather was nice. After the front passes tomorrow, maybe the winds will change.
(2006) The Minot Super 8 Lodge, room 116 was a little more pricey than the others – it was $29.30 each night (two nights).
July 17 (Day 20): Minot ND (Rest Day)
6:30 pm CDT
Slept in today – damn good idea, too. Rained/thundered off and on all day. It’s been pouring for an hour now. I suspect we’ve had more than an inch of rain since 5:30. When it stops I’m walking the ½ mile to the Pizza Hut for some spaghetti.
I mailed my camera home this morning. The people at Pac N Ship offered me a ride to Minneapolis, but I declined the offer.
Bought a cheap camera at K-Mart, as well as a decent pair of sweat pants. I’m down to $400 now. It’s camping time.
I was awakened last night with pains in my right shoulder. Took Ibuprofen again.
(2006) In retrospect, I am glad it rained this day and that I rested. I think I was suffering from exhaustion.
July 18 (Day 21): Minot ND to Devil's Lake ND
